Two new places to get a good burger

Wahlburgers and Dead Lawyer's Pub are worth adding to your list.

Wahlburgers

79彩票注册网址Donnie’s Choice at Wahlburgers

FRIDAY LUNCH

Dead Lawyer's Pub
186 N. Wells St. | 312-269-0300
Cuisine: Burgers

Wahlburgers
2 E. Ontario St. | 312-291-8997
Cuisine: Burgers

79彩票注册网址All restaurant meals are paid for by Crain's reviewers, who visit restaurants anonymously. They sometimes follow up with phone calls to management after they visit to clarify information.

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To the city's panoply of beefy delights, two new hamburger-centric restaurants have opened in and near the Loop in recent months. Both offer full-service lunches as well as streamlined takeout, and both merit a casual escape-the-desk break.

Wahlburgers is a multicity chain some might recognize from the identically titled reality TV show featuring its owners, the Wahlbergs, two of whom are entertainers Mark and Donnie. Its ambiance swings toward the brightly lit and colored rooms of fast food, and its well-accoutered burgers situate themselves similarly. Most comparable to the quick-but-better specialties of Shake Shack and M Burger, Wahlburgers have thicker (third-pound), pinker patties a little too compact in circumference for the bready buns.

Dead Lawyer's Pub79彩票注册网址 occupies one of those urban-bustle under-el storefronts where the Loop feels less slick. Inside, the smell of cooking beef pervades the air, like a there-forever tavern along the lines of Moody's Pub. The muscular burgers come with thick, well-browned patties on a soft, buttery bun and the usual fixins of lettuce, tomato and more onion than those in intimate relationships ought to eat.

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Dead Lawyer’s Pub

Dead Lawyer’s Pub

SPECIAL RELATIVITY

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79彩票注册网址Specialty burgers with slightly adventurous ingredients fill out both menus. At Dead Lawyer's Pub, they have legally punning or merely legal names, such as the Law Clerk's Dream ($14), with goat cheese, a balsamic reduction and roasted, marinated bell peppers. At Wahlburgers, the funky bunch consists of concoctions such as the BBQ Bacon ($9.45) with white cheddar, raw jalapeno slices, housemade barbecue sauce and avocado spread.

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LORD OF THE FRIES

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79彩票注册网址Wahlburgers wins the day, by a nose. Dead Lawyer's Pub serves pale shoestring fries with both taste and texture much better than their low-end-chain look, managing a soft inside for such a thin fry and flexing a burly flavor from the fry oil. Wahlburgers' are thick and skin-on, flaunting a hot, smooth interior and a firm exterior.

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SIDE EYE

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Wahlburgers' "thin crispy onion rings" turned out mostly a misnomer, as the light-battered onion arcs rarely made it a full 2-pi radians. The small shreds were tasty but hard to dip, an overall effect like an exploded Awesome Blossom. Dead Lawyer's Pub had a perfunctory lettuce-and-tomato salad and unavailable tomato soup.

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AS FAST AS FAST-CASUAL

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Both Dead Lawyer's Pub and Wahlburgers, without any prompting for speed, had us in and out in about 45 minutes.

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