• Dining
  • Time Out's food hall: Our review

    Part one of our critics' look at the media brand's foray into the celebrity chef business.

    Jack Li

    Time Out Market

    TIME OUT MARKET

    916 W. Fulton Market
    79彩票注册网址 312-637-3888

    All restaurant meals are paid for by Crain's reviewers, who visit restaurants anonymously. They sometimes follow up with phone calls to management after they visit to clarify information.

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    Time Out Market is part of a new category of food halls that aims not for fast food for foodies, but for fancy food fast.

    It harnessed the expertise of the food editors of the out-and-about website and erstwhile weekly magazine to book chefs with foodie cachet into its stalls—18 in all, plus a bar. The media brand has opened similar markets in Lisbon, New York, Miami, Boston and Montreal, and plans to open spots in London, Dubai and Prague. Here, as in the other cities, some stalls use the name of the chef instead of a restaurant—a little inside baseball. The lineup, cultivated by food journalists, appeals greatly to (ahem) other food journalists.

    Like its West Loop neighbor Politan Row, the hall dresses itself fancier than the line-up-for-takeout food halls. When you bring back your buzzer to claim your food, it comes on ceramic plates with metal flatware. The chefs plate some dishes as artfully as they would in a full-service restaurant.

    79彩票注册网址Unsurprisingly, the fine-dining chefs brought their prices with them. A randomly chosen lunch entree costs in the midteens, pushing $20 after taxes and pressure to tip.

    79彩票注册网址Also unlike more lunch-focused food halls, Time Out Market stays open all day, breakfast through late night, each stall choosing which meals it serves. Lunch is good, but the compressed hour post-office and pre-show might be the busy executive's best use for this food hall. Here's part one of Crain's review.

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    Jack Li

    Decent Beef

    BUN VOYAGE

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    Fast-food staples do dot the hall, but always as executed by fine-dining chefs, at fine-dining prices. The fried chicken sandwich ($12) from chef Zoe Schor at Split-Rail capably blended the textures of its components, but without bold statements on spice or creative ingredients to justify its price tag. The Italian beef ($12 single, $22 double), on the other hand, from Kevin Hickey of Duck Inn at the Decent Beef stand, made paying at least twice a normal price seem worth it, with the high-quality meat just bursting with beefiness and giardiniera hitting the sweet spot between too-raw underseasoning and too-soft overpickling.

    7072彩票开户 7073彩票地址 963彩票开户 7073彩票网址 689彩票邀请码 7073彩票注册 8炫彩彩票app 677彩票开户 7073彩票登录 66顺彩票app
    Jack Li

    79彩票注册网址Band of Bohemia's braised pork belly

    CZECH, PLEASE

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    Band of Bohemia, the Ravenswood restaurant and brewery known for outre experimentation, does not stint on the upscale trappings at its counter. Roasted carrots ($14) come with miso caramel, beluga lentils, supremed orange segments and cashews, fascinatingly finding a citrusy element in the carrot. Pork belly ($24) with quinoa, roasted fennel, puffed rice and banana jam could benefit from a grain more flavor-carrying than quinoa.

    7072彩票开户 7073彩票地址 963彩票开户 7073彩票网址 689彩票邀请码 7073彩票注册 8炫彩彩票app 677彩票开户 7073彩票登录 66顺彩票app
    Jack Li

    Pretty Cool Ice Cream

    TRUTH IN ADVERTISING

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    The Chicago Mix ice cream bar ($5.50) from Pretty Cool Ice Cream, studded with popcorn and sporting our local crazy-genius cheese-caramel combination, is indeed pretty cool.

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    Crain's other restaurant critic, Joanne Trestrail, reviews more Time Out Market stalls for her column next week.

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