• Dining
  • Cooper's Hawk comes to the city. How is it?

    This opulent, 405-seat outpost opened in the space formerly occupied by Del Frisco's steakhouse. It's the first in Chicago and also the biggest.

    Barry Brecheisen

    Cooper's Hawk

    COOPER'S HAWK

    58 E. Oak St. |312-736-9999

    Neighborhood: 79彩票注册网址 Coast 
    Cuisine: American fusion 
    Vibe: More is more
    Sound level: No problem
    Entree price range: $13-$75
    Reservations: Accepted 
    Private rooms: Seat 8-250
    Wheelchair accessible: Yes

    79彩票注册网址All restaurant meals are paid for by Crain's reviewers, who visit restaurants anonymously. They sometimes follow up with phone calls to management after they visit to clarify information.

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    79彩票注册网址

    People who remember when the Esquire Theatre was a 1,400-seat movie palace may still struggle to reconcile their memories with the rebuilt structure (luxury retail on the ground floor, a multilevel restaurant with terrace above), even though the transformation happened years ago. Now, more change: In November, an opulent, 405-seat outpost of Cooper's Hawk Winery & Restaurant 79彩票注册网址opened in the space formerly occupied by Del Frisco's steakhouse. Cooper's Hawk has 42 locations, with five more planned to launch this year, and though Illinois has 14, the Esquire is the first in Chicago and also the biggest. If it's not the splashiest, we're not sure we want to see the ones that are splashier.

    The narrow street entrance opens onto a passage lined with eye-catching displays of glittering glassware, wine accessories and a three-story wine tower. Beyond them, escalators whisk you up to the restaurant. Cushy and softly lighted, it's divided into dining and lounge areas, a tasting room and a shop where you can buy many of the things you've seen on your way in. The restaurant is not a foodie paradise, exactly, but it isn't trying to be. It works best for wine-fueled celebrating and, we can easily imagine, your more festive business lunches.

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    Barry Brecheisen

    Citrus-glazed Atlantic salmon

    TMI?

    79彩票注册网址

    The long-winded menu, essentially the same for all Cooper's Hawk restaurants, lacks an easy-to-digest lunch section. Instead, there's a chef-recommended lunch on the "signature menu" page (exclusive to the Esquire location); burgers and sandwiches come 11 pages later, "lunch-sized entrees" two pages after that and two pages of "life balance" choices with 600 or fewer calories after that. In between are appetizers, salads, sides, entrees and combo plates that might be just the ticket for lunch, but who knows?

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    Barry Brecheisen

    Roadhouse burger

    HITS, MISSES

    79彩票注册网址

    An appetizer of hummus topped with roasted carrots, cauliflower and sweet onion, plus toasted pita ($8.99), is darned good. Our chicken pot stickers with Asian cabbage slaw ($9.99) were indelicate and not hot but tasted nice. An entree of boldly spiced jambalaya ($19.99) is generous with chicken, andouille and shrimp. The meat on our sandwich of shaved prime rib ($17.99 with fries, fruit or slaw) was overdone and overchewy; beef tenderloin medallions on a "life balance" plate ($25.99) were similarly overcooked. Much better: 79彩票注册网址soy-ginger Atlantic salmon with luscious wasabi-buttered mashed potatoes ($19.99).

    7072彩票开户 7073彩票地址 963彩票开户 7073彩票网址 689彩票邀请码 7073彩票注册 8炫彩彩票app 677彩票开户 7073彩票登录 66顺彩票app
    Barry Brecheisen

    Braised short-rib and three-cheese rigatoni

    POUR HOUSE

    79彩票注册网址

    Every dish includes a suggested wine pairing. Many glasses are less than $10, many bottles less than $30; flights range from $14.99 to $19.99. This is the only Cooper's Hawk location that offers sommelier-selected global wines in addition to the ones made for the restaurants in the company's Woodridge winery.

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    Barry Brecheisen

    Roasted vegetable and goat cheese flatbread

    LOCAL HEROES

    79彩票注册网址

    Cooper's Hawk CEO Tim McEnery opened the first location in Orland Park in 2005; it's still in operation. The chain's executive chef, Matt McMillin, is a Chicago native, an alum of Kendall College and a former partner in Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises.

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